Rare 1915 Babani of Paris jacquard damask silk "cocoon" evening coat. During that same period a cocoon shape dolman sleeve coat similar in design was designed by Paul Poiret on page 428 in the book Fashion by the Kyoto Art Museum.
Babani's signature exotic Asian style influence and decorative passementrie embroidery, clearly displayed in geometric sections. Coat fashioned of rich deep royal purple damask silk in subtle paisley patterns and floral swags. Side fastening with button and loop closure adorned with a magnificent large handmade flower.
Further, there are 3-dimensional handmade rosettes with purple centers adorned throughout the entire coat on interior edges as well as sleeves. They encircle neckline down front closure and around hemline as well as interior of sleeves. The rosettes are showcased by blush pink silk charmeuse lining.
Babani and Gallenga were considered contemporaries of Mariano Fortuny. Each artist displayed their unique talents with their own distinctive signatures during this period. Babani was heavily influenced by Fortuny and Liberty of London. These dramatic full length coats in very good to excellent condition are rare and costly.
Bust: to 42"; waist: 36"; hips: 43"; length: 54"
Condition: The exterior fabric of the coat is in excellent condition. The lining, in my opinion, needs to be replaced.